Stylish Fabrics + Trend Patterns Raglan Dress Hack

As soon as the new year rolls around I anxiously await the arrival of spring! Lighter layers, warmer days, green buds emerging from the ground. These things make my heart soar!

In honor of spring’s soon arrival, I decided to make a lighter-weight statement dress and experiment with a style I’ve been intrigued by for a while…prairie chic.

The Pattern: Trend Pattern Raglan Dress (TPC22)
The Fabric: Crepe chiffon c/o Stylish Fabrics
The Process: My idea for this dress was ‘go big or go home’. I had a vision in my head and it was either going to be GREAT or awful, no middle ground. Thankfully, I think it all worked out and I really love the outcome! The striped pattern of the crepe fabric helped modernize the prairie style. I sewed a straight size 8 (UK sizing) even though I was between the size 8 and 10. The style of the dress has so much ease I figured it would be better to size down so I wasn’t swimming in all the fabric. The directions for putting the pattern together were quite minimal to the point I think I would have struggled to make this as a beginner sewist. Thankfully it isn’t a super complicated pattern so I made it through just fine.
Sara from The Sara Project just happened to share a blog post with tips for working with rayon and crepe right as I was putting this dress together. It’s definitely worth a read and I found it very helpful with this make!
Modifications: I made 2 very doable changes to the original design of the dress. First, and most notably, I added a dramatic ruffle to the bottom. To do this I shortened the finished dress length to hit just below my knee. Then i measured (with the dress on) the length from the bottom of the unfinished dress to where I wanted the dress to hit at my feet. I then calculated seam and hem allowance and that gave me my length. For width, I simply used a 1:2 ratio, doubling the circumference of the dress to get the desired volume. Originally I was hoping to do a 1:3 ratio but didn't have enough fabric. In the end I’m thankful for the outcome bc I think the volume is just right and doesn’t feel too heavy. This is a modification that can easily be done with many dresses or tops to add length or a bit of flair!
The second addition I made was adding the waist tie. I wanted the dress to give me some kind of shape and this was just the ticket! I simply eyeballed the width and used the length of what fabric I had left for the sash.
Styling & Versatility: You could definitely say there is a lot going on with this dress. Between the back tie closure, deep keyhole, waist tie, neck ruching, high neck feature, AND the ruffle and the bottom…it’s a statement. But I’m glad I went big and had fun with it. This whole process stretched my vision-to-fruition muscle and I’m excited to keep trying such adventurous makes.
To keep the dress a little toned down, I style it with a classic pair of Converse sneakers, unstyled hair, minimal makeup, and minimal jewelry. In the future I will try a more ‘dressed up’ version, possibly with an updo and some strappy black heels.
Overal Review: Y’all, I had FUN with this one. Can you tell? :) Working with the crepe-chiffon (thank you Stylish Fabric) was a new experience so I walked away with new skills there. Hacking the Trend pattern was a leap for me so I walked away feeling more confident in my ability to cast a vision. And lets talk about the photos! My incredibly talented friend, Jill, shot this dress for me and I’m so please with how it all came out. You can see more of her styling and art direction via her Instagram page.

An Upcycled Holiday Look

After completing my #sewfrosting floral Fulton Sweater Blazer, I knew I wanted an accompanying dress to fit underneath for the holidays. The Fulton doesn’t have a ton of ease so I needed to make something more fitted. After a quick Instagram poll, the Nettie Dress & Bodysuit soon came to the top of my list. (Thank you faithful Insta friends who always come to my rescue!)

In true serendipitous fashion, this velvety fabric fell in my lap when my mom was gifted a bag of second hand clothing from a woman at her office. We sifted through each piece and I took a long velvet shift dress with a matching jacket (see last pic!). The dress was too large for me but I knew it would make an incredible fitted Christmas dress!

So here she is, the Nettie Dress + Bodysuit by Closet Case Patterns. I carefully cut up the old dress then used the fabric to work with my pattern pieces. I then sewed up the dress grading a size 2 at the bust, 4 at the waist, and 6 at the hip. I had to piece together the band that goes around the neck and back due to fabric restrictions.
You might notice some dart lines in the back. These were already in the previous dress so I left them in place and it gives the illusion of extra shaping in the back of my Nettie. Kind of a fun addition that I didn’t have to fuss with!

And here is the entire holiday look! My Fulton Sweater Blazer by Alina Design Co in fabric from Joann’s, paired with my Nettie body con dress, as well at my trusty Lotta clogs!

We are heading out of town for the holidays next week. I’m looking forward to time with family and away from my everyday routine.
I pray each of you has a blessed Christmas season and I can’t wait to start making in the new year! See you in 2019!

Cozy Sweater with Style Maker Fabrics

When Style Maker Fabrics reached out to see if I wanted to be on their blog tour, how could I pass it up?! Lots of blog tours around here lately. :) It’s so fun to collaborate with small businesses and other fabric/sewing loving folks.

I wish I could give you the details on this pattern (I WILL SOON), but it’s a pattern I tested for that isn’t quite released yet. So, for now I will share about this fabric and save pattern details for later. Check back in a few short weeks.

Style Maker Fabrics sent me this incredibly cozy plush twill weave french terry in grey. Trust me when I say it is the softest fabric ever. I feel like I’m touching a cloud!

Working with this type of fabric was new territory for me. Admittedly I gravitate toward wovens, but something about crisp cool air makes me want to grab something knit and cozy.
This french terry has a lot of stretch. Thanks to a friend’s recommendation I adjusted my differential feed quite a lot on my serger and didn’t struggle with too much waving on the seams. I was amazed at how off my pattern was once I began sewing with it simply due to the stretch. But evening out the bottom was quick and it made everything level to hem.
If you are new to knits, working with this fabric may prove a tad tricky. But trust me when I saw, the cozy factor is worth the learning curve!

Thank you SO MUCH Style Maker Fabrics for having me on your tour! Don’t miss the other amazing sewists who are along for this fun collaboration too! (See Instagram for details)

Marcella Romano Blog Tour - Simplicity 8086

Are you ready to see the fanciest and hardest thing I've ever made?....Here it is!

Today, Leslie of Thread Bear Garments, and I are the next stop on a blog tour of talented ladies. We all selected fabric from a very sweet family-owned Italian fabric shop called Marcella Romano. The rules for the tour were...'there are no rules'. In other words, we could make whatever our hearts desired. How fun!

For the last year I've wanted to make Simplicity 8086 by Cynthia Rowley. My vision was to make the dress in a fancy fabric and wear it to my husband's work Christmas party. When I saw this particular jacquard on Marcella's site, I knew it was meant to be! 

The Pattern: Simplicity 8086 by Cynthia Rowley
The Fabric: Main fabric - metallic jacquard with yellow drops c/o Marcella Romano. Lining fabric - satin faced twill purchased from Mood Fabrics.
The Process: I approached this project with great care, b/c y'all...this fabric is incredible. I've never worked with anything like it and I wanted to do it justice. My first order of business was reading any and all blogs/instagram posts/pattern reviews I could find. Lots of people struggled with this pattern, particularly at step 19, the part where the outer top piece attaches to the inside piece. That's right, this dress is all one piece, even though it looks like separates. Thank heaven for Melanie of Prima Dress Maker, who blogged about her process of sewing this dress AND included pictures and personal instructions to make it through the trickiest part. She was my God-sent angel (and I messaged her and told her so). If you ever create this dress, reference her post and you will make it through.
Next, I took my measurements and started on my muslin. Due to the more advanced level of this dress, the muslin was very helpful. I was able to troubleshoot fit issues and rip out seams without minding the fabric too much. I could tell the jacquard would need to be handled as little as possible so I wanted to go into the final version knowing exactly what I was doing.
After I was happy with the muslin I began cutting the lining and main fabrics. Per my mother-in-laws excellent advice, I serged along the edges of every jacquard piece. The fabric frays easily and I wanted to prevent any unraveling of this precious fabric (this step was KEY). 
From there I followed the instructions, utilized what I learned from Melanie's post as well as my muslin trial then put the dress together.
Modifications: For sizing I sewed an 8 on top and a size 12 on the bottom, blending the two where the skirt and bodice attach. To do this I added 5/8 inch extra to the center back part of the bodice pieces.
Due to the nature of the jacquard, I decided to line the skirt, which the pattern does not call for. I drafted an a-line skirt following a tutorial I found online. In the end it didn't have enough ease, so my mother-in-law helped me add a wedge to the center front. This is all hidden away underneath the dress so it's not seen.
What I Learned the Hard Way: I'm adding this section for the sake of this particular post. Let me share the things I would do differently if I created this again or utilized this type of fabric again.

• Do not 'reduce bulk' at seam allowance by simply trimming with scissors. This fabric MUST be reinforced with serging. Either ignore instruction to trim allowance or serge it closer to the seam.
• Reduce stitch length due to more loosely woven nature of fabric. I wish I would have done this particularly where the skirt attaches to the bodice. The weight of the fabric and lining causes a bit of stress.
• Apply a strip of interfacing to jacquard where bodice and skirt meet as well as center back where zipper is inserted. This would ensure longevity of dress in high-stress areas.
• Do not snip to reduce bulk when inserting invisible zipper. Sadly, I did this and the fabric started to fray on the outside after taking the dress off and on several times. I reinforced the weakend area after the fact, but now it's not as secure.
• For the lining of the skirt, finish raw edges of seem before attaching. This seams obvious, and it is. But I forgot and now there are raw edges exposed if you look underneath (which nobody will be doing but me. Haha).

Styling & Versatility: This dress is a show-stopper. That wasn't my intention exactly, but I'm incredibly proud of it. I will be wearing this to my husband's work party at Christmas and sitting/dancing very delicately. :) When I put on the dress I felt like the queen of England...which is fun, but not really my style. So, I'm pairing it with a strappy sexy heel and playful jewelry for the party. No pearls.
Overal Review:  This pattern and fabric stretched my abilities and challenged me in very good ways. Just like following the completion of my Hampton Jean Jacket, I feel I've earned another star in my sewing journey. Skills that will come with me moving forward. This was HARD, but I did it and I'm hella proud.

I want to give a shoutout to a few INCREDIBLE ladies who were instrumental in making this all happen:

• Jill Nicole of Jill Nicole Photos for her stunning work. Aren't the pictures breathtaking? She was so patient with me as I attempted to model (not my strength).
• Lauren Davis of @thisislaurendavis for putting my hair up in this amazing updo! Check out her instagram page...she is hair and nail goals.
• Marie Fleurine of Sew Marie Fleur who coordinated this blog tour in collaboration with Marcella Romano. Thanks, girl!
• Kathy White, my mother-in-law who is always there to help me and has years of sewing wisdom.

Don't miss the other ladies on this tour! See them here:

• Sewvee
• Sew Mariefleur
• Handmade Frenzy
• Merritts Makes
• Threadbear Garments
• Frolein Tilia
• Kreamino

Double Cloth Summer Dress

Welcome to my quirkiest photoshoot to date. I've been SO inspired by a few new accounts on Instagram that I thought I'd try a less-traditional take on a blog post. Ha. Thank you to my husband for rolling with my vision and allowing me to get creative.

When I saw this incredible mural while driving down Douglas (the main street that cuts through our downtown in Wichita), I fell in LOVE. The colors. the quirky macaroni...what's not to love? (by the talented Armondo Minjarez)
So after I completed this dress, curled my hair like crazy, put some gold eyeshadow under my eyes...it was TIME.
Now, for details...

The Pattern: In the Folds Pepelum Top (lengthened into a dress)
The Fabric: Double cloth from Indiesew
The Process: Allie of Indiesew listed this double cloth fabric on her site and I was instantly drawn to it. Simple lines and SO breathable. I'd never worked with double cloth before but decided to give it a whirl. When washed, this fabric shrinks up in a really interesting way and Allie suggested NOT ironing the fabric before cutting it out to sew. Welllll I veered away from that (although I love the crinkled look) and decided to iron it and cut. I will most likely need to re-iron after every wash if I want to get this look each time. We will see what happens (I'm a werido that likes to iron, so it doesn't bother me).
Working with the double cloth was fun up until the bias binding. Because of the nature of the 2 layers of fabric, then cutting it on the bias...whew. It was tricky. I ended up redoing the armholes twice and finally caved and used pre-made bias tape on the neck.
I left the bottom edge with an open selvage b/c I love the look of it! Gives it a bit of an 'undone' vibe.
I chose to play with the directions of the stripes as well, just for fun!
One thing to note about this dress...it is quite voluminous! The light weight fabric mixed with the ruffles makes for lots of fabric and movement when walking. It ended up being a bit more of a statement dress than I intended.
Modifications: This pattern is originally for a peplum top. I simply extended the ruffle part of the pattern by over 2 feet. After sewing up one side I decided I wanted pockets, so I went back and added those in, using a pocket pattern from another dress I'd made. It's hard to see in the picture, but I used the back side of the fabric (a solid blue) for the pocket lining, so it peaks through sometimes. These little details make garments like this so special to me.
Styling & Versatility: This is definitely a summer dress given the weight of the fabric. But with these crazy hot days we've been having, I'm grateful for a giant breathable piece to wear. I dressed this up for church with my quirky Dolce Vita slides, but I could also see wearing it with my Birkenstocks for a more casual look
I could possibly style it with a cardigan or my Hampton jean jacket for fall. We will see!
Overal Review: I had fun 'hacking' a pattern I'd already sewn up before and I learned a lot about working with double cloth.